By Kira Krauss

As a confirmed urban-dweller it is rare that I find myself envious of rural communities. A city girl at heart, I've always believed that the best of culture and cuisine are almost exclusively found in urban places. So I was as surprised when I discovered some of the freshest, most delicious Italian food in the area in a little brown building on Highway 55 in Apex. I don't think that many would argue that Apex is a mecca of fine dining, but spend an evening at Daniel's Pizza Pasta Café and you just may leave singing a different tune. After driving 30 minutes from downtown Raleigh to Daniel's, I was ravenous and disappointed to hear there would be a 30-minute wait. But no sooner did we order a drink at the bar then our name was called and we were escorted to the Café's cute little patio, complete with bistro tables, greenery and a fountain. Our host told us that most people wanted to sit inside (as to why we were so quickly bumped to the front of the list). I found this surprising considering it was a perfect evening outside on the patio and the inside seemed a bit dark and noisy (lots of children).

My dinner companion and I ordered an appetizer and perused the wine list, which is extensive and quite thoughtfully selected. I was thrilled to find Coppola Blue Label Merlot among the offerings, a rarely seen vintage on area wine lists. Our Goat Cheese Fondue ($5.95) appetizer arrived, which was more of a softened wedge than a fondue, but it was delicious nonetheless. Complemented by red sauce and adorned with Kalamata olives, roasted red peppers and fresh basil, this appetizer alone made the experience memorable and comes highly recommended.

We followed our appetizer with a Spinach Salad ($4.95) topped with Maytag Bleu Cheese, tomato and red onion and dressed with a roasted garlic-bacon dressing. In addition to the salad, herb and onion-encrusted foccacia bread was served with warm marinara sauce for dipping. This is the kind of bread where you find yourself saying, "Really, this is my last piece."

Daniel's menu is quite large and has so many tempting entrees that it took us a good 15 minutes to make a decision. If you don't believe me just listen to some of these entrees: Linguine Primavera Mediterranean (Artichokes, olives, roasted red peppers, broccoli, sundried tomatoes over linguine and topped with feta -- $10.95), Mushroom Ravioli in cream Marsala sauce ($10.95), or the Penne alla Casa (penne in a cream tomato sauce with sundried tomatoes, garlic, spinach and parmesan -- $9.95). After much deliberation we decided on the Chicken Franchaise ($11.95) and the Seafood Fra Diavlo ($18.95).

A Franchaise dish is prepared by dredging a meat of choice (in my case chicken) in an egg batter and sautéing it in a lemon, garlic and white wine sauce which is served over pasta. The delicate flavors of the sauce can be easily overpowered if the chef is too generous with the garlic, but Daniel's seems to have perfected the dish with perfectly balanced flavors and tender chicken that is cooked to a perfect golden brown.

My dinner companion was in the mood for something with a little more kick to it, thus the Fra Diavlo, a dish in which calamari, clams, mussels and shrimp are sautéed in a spicy red sauce and served over pasta. Unfortunately, the dish was less spicy than anticipated, but still flavorful and absolutely loaded with fresh seafood. Unlike some places that charge high dollar amounts for a dish with a measly six shrimp in it, Daniel's does not skimp on ingredients. I honestly can't remember the last time I saw a dish with this much seafood in it. However, if you want it truly spicy make sure to indicate so to your server.

People's taste for Italian food differs a great deal. Some like the lighter dishes of Northern Italy, while some like the more traditional dishes of Southern Italy. Not to worry, Daniel's has both, from delicate Piccatta dishes to traditional lasagna or spaghetti and meat sauce. The café has done a phenomenal job of offering a well-rounded menu. No matter what you choose, heed the next words I write very carefully: SAVE ROOM FOR DESSERT!

As soon as you walk into Daniel's, you can't help but notice the dessert cooler loaded with cheesecakes, pies, tiramisu and other homemade creations. Daniel's has a permanent dessert menu, but make sure to ask your server about the specials. The night we visited the special was incredible - coconut shortcake topped and filled with peaches, white chocolate and real whipped cream. The combination may sound a little strange, but it was out of this world.

Daniel's came as close to a flawless dining experience as I've had in a long time. The atmosphere is nice without being stuffy, the food is delicious and generously portioned, the service is friendly and the prices are reasonable. Sure, to us city slickers it may seem like a long way to drive for a bowl of pasta, but trust me, it's worth it.